Decoding Invitation Dress Codes: From White Tie to Smart Casual

If you're feeling a little lost when it comes to decoding dress codes on invitations, you're not alone.

At first it’s a thrill when that invitation flutters through your letterbox or, perhaps more likely these days, your inbox.

Then a certain chill sets in.

The unhelpful ‘dress cipher’ printed on the invitation serves to confuse -  “a touch of glamour,” “hipster formal,” “festive chic,” or “French Riviera fabulous” with no elaboration on what is actually required of one to wear in order to attire appropriately.

Fear not…

Here we will break down the dress code basics - White Tie, Black Tie, Semi-formal, Cocktail and Smart Casual.

In another post, we will address what I like to call ”Millennial Madness“ (basically whatever theme was trending on social media … like five minutes ago) lest your headache turns into a migraine.


Carolina Herrera Black Tux Gown

WHITE TIE

This is known as the most formal dress code. It must be said this dress code is an endangered species.

Unless you are invited to a White House State banquet or Le Bal des Débutantes, the odds of you encountering this in your inbox are on par with you sighting a Yeti on your next trip to the Himalayas.

Still…could happen, so what to wear?

Women should wear a formal floor-length evening gown, with no exceptions.

Pair your dress with real jewellery or fabulous costume jewellery (think Elizabeth Taylor), high heels, and an elegant clutch. 

Men are required to wear a tuxedo with tails, a formal white shirt, a white vest and bow tie, white or grey gloves, and formal footwear, such as derby shoes or oxfords.


Marchesa Classic Strapless Pink Gown

BLACK TIE

Take a breath…this one is a teensy bit easier.

The black-tie dress code has seen a massive revival in the last decade, mostly thanks to the surge of interest in period dramas (à la Downton Abbey).

Often appearing on invitations for parties, dinners and more increasingly, weddings. So let’s discuss the finer details.

Women should wear a formal floor-length gown that does not reveal the ankles (god forbid), but if the event seems a bit less formal, a sophisticated cocktail dress may also be acceptable.

Women may also wear elegant pantsuits…but make it spectacular, please. 

Men should wear a black bow tie, black vest or cummerbund, and patent leather shoes shined (to quote the legendary arbiter of good taste Diana Vreeland, “unshined shoes are the end of civilization”), so gentlemen, get out your boot polish. A white dinner jacket
and black tuxedo trousers are also acceptable for summer occasions.


Marc Jacobs Gold Sequin Slip Dress

SEMI-FORMAL

Part of dressing for a semi-formal event is taking the time of the occasion into account.

The rule of thumb is to wear darker, more formal colours for an evening invitation and opt for light colours and fabrics for a daytime event.

Accessories can be your best friend here; a fabulous necklace, cuff, or earring can elevate your look instantaneously.

Women should try a below-the-knee dress or a great skirt and top.

An elegant pantsuit is also appropriate. Floor-length gowns, however, would be inappropriate. Pair with high heels or formal flats - think pretty and nothing your first-grade teacher might have worn…

Men should wear a dress shirt and tailored pants, dark or light depending on the time of day, with the option to wear a tie. 


Kate Spade Pink Cocktail Dress

COCKTAIL

Cocktail parties are typically colourful and extravagant (at least the good ones are!), and what you wear should reflect this.

This is no time to be boring…unleash your inner Carrie Bradshaw and rise and shine.

Women can wear a knee-length or above-the-knee dress or skirt, a chic dress pant and top ensemble, or a jumpsuit.

The bolder, the better—colours, sequins and embellishments are encouraged…go wild!

Men can wear a dark suit ensemble (in the manner of Mr. Bond ) but this time with a regular necktie. Another simple yet foolproof outfit for this dress code would be a dress shirt, a nice pair of chinos, a dark blazer, and a matching tie for a more relaxed cocktail invitation.


Alexandre Vauthier Gold Fleck Jersey Dress

SMART CASUAL

The smart casual dress code is probably the one that causes the most confusion.

Perhaps because some people's idea of ‘smart casual’ is pairing socks with their Crocs and throwing on a polar fleece. This is only acceptable if a brown bear is hosting your event and you plan to sit on toadstools. 

The event will be much more laid-back, especially regarding attire.

That said, women should avoid jeans, shorts, and tank tops and opt for a summer sundress or other pretty, colourful clothing.

Wedges or dressy sandals are perfect for a casual affair, but utilitarian sandals and sneakers are out. 

Men can wear dress pants or khaki pants with a collared shirt. You can add a tie or sports jacket if you'd like, but it won't be required. If it's chilly, feel free to add a stylish cashmere sweater as well. Steer clear of any t-shirts or tennis shoes, an absolute faux pas….


Hopefully, this helps you decode that invitation dress code, but let’s face it, how we feel in what we are wearing can have a big impact on how comfortable we feel at the party.

After a drink or two, if you feel good in your ensemble, you may just dance to dawn, and that’s what I call a damned good time!